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When gubernatorial candidate Xavier Becerra casually advised the National Assn. of Latino Elected and Appointed Officials to bypass California’s traditional brick-and-mortar restaurants — arguing that you don’t get “real street tacos” from a long-standing establishment, but from the guy who makes them “in his little cart” — he likely thought he was delivering a charming, populist nod to local culinary culture. Instead, his comment touched a raw nerve across the state’s food service industry.